Saturday, March 12, 2011

Smith Rock Update

So with the guide out I'd like to keep an updates of the new routes I've been doing. 

  • "Spare Air"  5.7 A3+  FA: Tyler Adams & Ryan Lawson - January 2010
    This route begins to the left of Scarface in one the East side of the Christian Brothers. Insanley steep! Start with a couple steep hooks, to a bolt. Nail beaks up seams past four bolts to a belay just left of the "5.15 project" belay. 27 beak placements where used on the first ascent: Finish on the last pitch of "Air to Spare".  About 50' of beaks off the belay leads to rotten free climbing (5.7) left and into the "Hobbit Hole". Figure out one of many ways to get out of the "Hobbit Hole".
    Protection: Beaks, 2 LAs, 2 baby angles, some cams to 4".

    Tyler Adams jumaring past pitch one on day 2.
    Ryan Lawson starting pitch 2. Photos: Jake Ringold
  • "Taco Tuesday"  5.6  FA: Tyler Adams & Adam Cox - June 2010
    Located on the "Swiss Cheese Wall" just to left of the Marsupial Wall. This is the left of three routes there. Jim Ablao bolted the other two in May of 2010, the furthest right is 5.10a and to its left 5.8. Both of high quality. Taco Tuesday starts up a ramp heading towards the right, then move left and more or less straight up easy buckets to the anchor.
    Protection: 6 bolts.

    Adam Cox chillen at the base.
    The Sups!
  • "no name"  5.9  FA: Tyler Adams & Cathy Power - January 2011
    About as secluded as possible but now that theres two routes out there why not check it out! Located near the route And Justice for All wich is about a half mile to the east of the Kangaroo. "no name" starts about 15' to the right of And Justice for All. Climb up steep jugs past seven bolts to an anchor.
    Protection: 7 bolts.

    Killer action shot!
    Yay! First first ascent!
  • "The Bratwurst"  A1 or 5.13?  FA: Tyler Adams & Will Nazarian - Febuary 2011
    Located on the South face of the Kangaroo. Bolted on lead inteded to be a free climb. Could be aided with some beaks but why bother. Super solid stone. Hopefully free soon.
    Protection: 7 bolts.
  • "Free Hookers"  5.9  FA: Tyler Adams & Jake Hector - March 2011
    Free Hookers is a free route that crosses my first first ascent at Smith "Loose Hookers" 5.6 A1.  Free Hookers was bolted on lead and is pretty good quality if you looking for a fun, reasonably protected adventure route to the top of the Mudpile. I acctually added a bolt where the routes cross!  Its fun see what I climbed with out bolts when I was such a noob. The start begins about 15' uphill from the start of Loose Hookers. Climb left past two bolts in rotten looking rock continue left and up to another bolt. Head right to a bolt and mantle left into a scoop, climb past another bolt to a low angled slab to a fixed KB. Continue 40' up easy rock to the summit.
    Protecion: 5 bolts, 1 fixed KB.
  • "Lost Again" 5.10a FA:  Tyler Adams & Alan Watts - March 2011
    I was able to get Alan out of climbing retirement for this off the beaten path route it located on Dissapearing Tower to the East of The Wombat. The route starts on the uphill side. We tryed what we belive to be the original route to the top, when a missing fixed pin created an unprotected boulder move we looked elsewhere. From the uphill saddle I traveresd out onto the South face. A 30' traverse to the right leads to a short but physical overhanging crack. Surmont this crack and gain a large ledge. Place some protection in the obvious crack then traverse right and climb to the summit via the face to the right not using the crack. A classic Smith adventure route.
    Protection: Gear to 3".
Alan Watts on top of Lost Hardware Pinnacle, Dissapearing Tower is to the left.

  • Brad Englunds Pecker - "Piolet de Oro" 5.6 A1  FA: Tyler Adams, Bill Amos & Dustin Fric, April 2011
    Brad's Pecker, was named in honor of Brad Englund who has inspired me to just keep doin what I'm doin and love every minnute of it. The pecker is located just north west of the New World Buttress. The pecker is on of the finers summits of Smith. Sure to fall down sometime in the next thousand years, if you took a sledge hammer to it you could have it on the ground by the end of the day. So go get some while its still there. Begin with a rotten mantel to then aid past four bolts to another mantel onto the summit. Figure out how to rappel off the one anchor bolt.

  • Angel Flight Buttress - "Call Yer Mom" 5.9   FA: Tyler Adams, Forrest Kaye & Ian Roth, 5/8/2011
            While rapping into replace the bolts on Angel Flight Buttress, I swung over to the left arete and spoted this line. You share one of the same bolts on the Angel Flight Buttress route, but the bolts on Call Yer Mom do not interfere at all with the original Angel Fligh Buttress line. So with this route it adds another fine 5.9  to the cluster of 5.9 over in that area. While dodging intermitent rain squalls we managed to nail the FA on mothers day, hence the name. Thanks Mom!
Forrest on the second ascent.

Ian belays Forrest in a minor drizzle.