Umpqua Aerial Tour!

I hooked up with Greg Orton down at Tokatee State Airport and we went and did a little crag spotting in the     Umpqua area. There is so much rock there its incredible! He took me climbing at McKinley Rock later in the day(sorry left the camera in the plane), McKinley Rock is incredible and really deserves more traffic... Here are some pictures that Greg took with my camera and a video I made.

Limpy Rock

Limpy Rock

Redmans Tooth

McKinley Rock

McKinley Rock

Rabbit Ears

Rabbit Ears

Dinner time @ Tokatee State!

Wolf Rock 2012

A new year means new routes.... I stopped updating the new routes at Wolf on here in the middle of last summer so here are some new as well as some revised descriptions and tall tales....


The first thing we did this year was adding another pitch to an old project. Chris and I went to Wolf during January 2011and eyed a solid looking buttress about 150' left of the start to ‘The Mystery Route’.  So it was on, and I started up but with only four bolts in my bag, got 70' up and ran out of bolts. Chris took over and added one more bolt and pushed through the routes crux and put in an anchor. We returned a year later in January again to add a second pitch and again I lead the first half of the pitch through the crux, until I got too much moss in my eyes, then we returned in May and Chris took over to finish up the pitch. Next up a couple of weeks later, Dave Trepp and I added two nice moderate pitches we named 'Scorpion Soup' and 'Weathertop' to the left of 'The Dimrill Stair'. Steve Elder and I came back a week later and added a second pitch atop 'Scorpion Soup' and 'Weathertop' consisting of only 50' of new climbing past three bolts to where it joins the second pitch of 'The Dimrill Stair' above the crux, now you can get to the upper ledge at only 5.7/8! So now there are five pitches to be climbed in that area and four of them 5.9 and under! 


WOOOHOOO! Ian Roth and I finished 'Scorpion Soup' to the summit! So now there is another easy technical route to the summit. Three roped pitches and 800' of 4th class scrambling brings one to the summit. 


Also this year back in January  Chris added another pitch to the 'The Coriolis Effect' with the help of his brother and I. This is a pretty stout pitch with a sweet lay back crux just below the anchor.   

I also decided to change the name of 'Gothmog' to 'Balrog' since 'Freaky Easy' was erroneously reffered to as 'Balrog' so that's that and here is whats been going on:

Chris preps the bolt kit to finish up pitch two of the 'The Dimrill Stair'. Hes's just above the crux overhang at the 5th bolt.

Wolf in all its glory.

The Great Arch.

Dave Trepp on the first ascent of 'Weathertop'

Ian Roth on pitch two of 'Scorpion Soup' during the summit push.

Scorpion Soup - 5.7/8 - 1210'

FA P1: Tyler Adams & Dave Trepp, 6/10/12

FA P2: Tyler Adams & Steve Elder, 6/20/12
FA complete route: Tyler Adams & Ian Roth, 6/28/12

             'Scorpion Soup' is a nice easy mixed climb that goes all the way to the summit. The route starts at the furthest left hand arete on the same buttress of 'The Dimrill Stair'. Pitch 1: Climb up past a fixed knife-blade and on to the face. Climb past two bolts (5.7) to another fixed knife-blade right on the arete. Continue up the corner just left of the arete placing a couple of cams then climb past two more bolts to the belay ledge. Pitch 2: Traverse up and right past three bolts and join the second pitch of 'The Dimrill Stair' right above the crux and continue up (5.8) the the belay ledge. Pitch 3:  Traverse up and left on great rock to a bolt, continue up (5.5) placing some cams to a fixed lost arrow. Aim for a small corner on the left of the giant scoop, climb up this then traverse right and up to a one bolt and a fixed knife-blade. From here 800' of 4th class brings one to the summit. You can rappel from the top of pitch two down 'The Dimrill Stair' with one 60m rope. Protection: Bolts, fixed pins & gear to .75"

Weathertop - 5.9 - 110'

FA: Dave Trepp & Tyler Adams, 6/10/12

            This is a great sport climb just left of 'The Dimrill Stair'. It shares the same anchor with the first pitch of 'Scorpion Soup'. Climb straight up past eight bolts to the nice belay ledge. No distinct crux just sustained climbing for most of the way. Rappel with one 70m rope. Protection: Bolts

The Dimrill  Stair – 5.10b - 200'                                                                                  FA P1: Chris Fralick & Tyler Adams, January 2011
FA P2: Tyler Adams & Chris Fralick, May 2012

 Pitch 1: Climb 20’ up to the first bolt and then trend up and left to the next two bolts, easy climbing leads to another bolt and a steep section(5.8) protected by a bolt. Above this easy climbing and one more bolt leads to the anchor. Pitch 2: This is the highlight of the route. Easier climbing leads past three bolts to below the overhang,  Pull through the overhang(5.10b) on the left side past one bolt and then finally another bolt and a good stance. Continue up past seven more bolts(5.7/8) up to the anchor. Rappel to the ground with two ropes, or make two 60m rappels down the route. Protection: Bolts

From L to R: Scorpion Soup, Weathertop & The Dimrill Stair

Chris at the start of 'The Dimrill Stair'

Chris on belay duty atop pitch one of 'The Dimrill Stair' with pitch two looming above.

Drilling at the crux on pitch two!

The Coriolis Effect – 5.10b - 300'

FA: Tyler Adams & Chris Fralick, July 2009
FA: Chris Fralick, Peter Fralick & Tyler Adams, January 2012

This is the best way to access the second pitch on ‘The Mystery Route’, and now with a stunning second pitch, you can go either way from the pitch one anchor. Pitch 1:From where the trail meets the rock head right 30' to the start of the route, 15' right of a small right facing corner. Follow a line of eleven bolts straight up(5.9)  130' to the belay Pitch 2: Follow the second pitch of the ‘Mystery Route’ or follow bolts up to the left of the ‘Mystery Route’. Head up and towards a shallow crack, layback the crack(5.10b) up to a belay at a small ledge. Rappel the route with two ropes. Protection: Bolts

 Chris pulling up the drill kit on pitch two of 'The Coriolis Effect'

Balrog – 5.9 - 70'
FA: Tyler Adams & Peter Fralick, May 2011

    Balrog is another fine 5.9 sport pitch at Wolf. It begins 30’ right of ‘The Coriolis Effect’, look for a shallow black corner. Follow six bolts up classic Wolf Rock style climbing two an anchor at a small ledge. Protection: Bolts

Scope Creep – 5.10a - 185'
FA: Scott Hunt & Peter Fralick, Summer 2011

                This is one of the longest pitches at Wolf, and undoubtedly a classic. Almost a whole 60m to the anchor with no distinct crux, just sustained climbing for a long ways. Follow bolts more or less straight up from the ‘Balrog’ anchor, eventually trending slightly left and up to the anchor atop pitch two of 'The Mystery Route', about fifteen bolts. Rappel with two ropes back to the 'Balrog' anchor, then one more single rope rappel to the ground. Protection: Bolts 

The Flying Scorpion – 5.9 - 350'                                                                                 FA P1 & P2: Tyler Adams & Jeff Thomas, January 2011
FA P3: Steve Elder & Tyler Adams, June 2011

                

This route was established as an independent start to ‘Freaky Easy’. It is named after a large 3” scorpion that was found while tossing some loose blocks off the pitch 3 belay ledges. Unfortunately for him, the scorpion was not a welcomed addition to the team, so he went flying along with some of the blocks which also chopped our tag line! There is a little loose rock on this route as with newer route at Wolf, but with the solid protection and wild climbing on pitch 3, it is well worth heading up. Pitch 1 and 2 can be combined. Pitch 1 (5.7):  Begins behind the tree that covers the trail, about 20' left of Space Cowboy. Be careful of some loose plates right at the start, they are easy to avoid. The first bolt it about 20' up, a yellow TCU protects the climbing to the first bolt. Climb past that bolt to a small ledge with a bolt, traverse up and left past three more bolts to a small ledge and an anchor. Pitch 2 (5.6): Climbs a short but nice 50' ramp up to the right using medium size cams for protection up to another nice belay ledge. Pitch 3 (5.9): Step to the right off the ledge and climb up past four bolts heading toward the small roof, clip a bolt around the roof, muscle through the roof on good holds, then step right to another bolt. Climb up to a small ramp joining ‘Freaky Easy’ and head left past one more new bolt to a small belay ledge at the base of the prominent right facing dihedral. Continue on the freakishly run out ‘Freaky Easy’, or rappel to the top of pitch two, then use two ropes to rappel to the ground or rappel to the top of pitch one and then to the ground with one rope. Protection: Bolts and cams to 2".


Chris, Forrest and I hooked up to go bolt a pitch I had top roped two years ago. I ticked the bolts, Chris drilled it and Forrest led it. A solid team effort! 


The Rubber Boa - 5.10b - 70' 
FA: Forrest Kaye, Chris Fralick & Tyler Adams, July 2012


This pitch starts form the belay atop pitch two of 'Morgul Vale'. Climb up and left from the anchor past six bolts, no distinct crux but sustained 5.10- climbing the whole way. Belay at the anchor for the 'Cross Roads Connection' and either continue to the summit or rappel. Protection: 6 Bolts. 

Chris drills while I chill!

We decided to scope the line the day before to make sure it would go.

Chris starts up pitch one of 'Edge of Mordor'.

Oregon Climbing History

Over the years I have acquired some cool artifacts related to Oregon climbing, but most of it just sits ignored at my house or on my computer.  So I would like to share some of what I've got here, I'll do a section for Western Oregon and Eastern Oregon... enjoy!

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Western Oregon

Larry Schmidt atop Callis Spire. September 1st, 1969. Photo: Scott Schmidt

Larry Schmidt atop the Bobcat. October 1968. Photo: Scott Schmidt

Original Barad-dur summit register entry. 1972

Bruce Birchell on Barad-dur. 1978 Photo: Scott Davis

1st entry, Wolf Rock Summit Register. 1964

Dean Fry handmade angle piton, made in the Corvallis High School shop. Circa 1971 

Jim Anglin homemade hangers. Circa 1980's

Pat Callis homemade bolt hangers. Circa late 1950's

Ring angle pitons used during the first ascent of the Turkey Monster. Circa 1964

Hand forged pitons used during the first ascent of Needle Rock. Circa 1968

Eugene Dodd rappels during the first ascent of Needle Rock. 1968. Photo: Jim Nieland

Some of the guys that created a lot of the climbing history in Oregon: Tom Bauman, Gary Kirk & Jeff Thomas. September 2010

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Eastern Oregon

 Mazamas Annual: Leslie Gulch. 

'The Eagles Claw' summit register. Circa 1970

Tower Town!!

Located on the East bank of the Deschutes River in Crooked River Ranch about 15 miles west of Smith Rock as the crow flies is a small cluster of spires known as Tower Town. Originally we had thought that all of the spires where unclimbed but to our dismay we spotted a rapped sling on what turned out to be the Eagles Claw , but the original first ascentionists had pulled there bolts on the way down so plenty of adventure was still left. Tower Town is dominated by one large 200' spire then about 5 or so 30-70' towers, and then the Eagle Claw situated a but more to the north of the rest of the group is the most phallic and impressive looking.

The first tower I climbed dubbed "The Hospital" My girlfriend Cathy tagged along for this one learning how to jumar on the spot. Luckily I cleaned it on rappel. The rack was about 12 large sized beaks and 2 bolts. The first bolt I drilled did not even stay put, but a better bolt was placed during the second ascent. Fun aid climbing and a good intro to the soft rock in Tower Town. Bill Amos & Dan Gaston repeated the route shortly there after.

Next up was "The Post Office" 5.7 This short tower located furthest north in the main group only required one lead bolt and about 30' of actual climbing.

After this is was my turn to establish a new line up "The Eagles Claw". I had originally planned to start on the uphill said and basically just drill a bolt ladder. But Bill and our pro photographer Matt Van Biene convinced me to start on the north side so they could get some better shots of me. Well there where actually some thin cracks here which made for some wild aid climbing the first bolt is about 35' up above A4 beaks. So this resulted in "The Eaglet". You'll need about 25 or so various beaks and specters and there are 5 lead bolts. Also have your lasso skills dialed or be ready to bust some dicey free moves at the top. I opted for a lasso of the summit horn.The most dangerous part is getting to the first bolt.

As of now this is all we've done, but we plan to return in the next couple of months to climb the rest of the towers....

ALL PHOTOS BELOW: COPYRIGHT MATT VAN BIENE 2011
vanbienephotography.com

The Eagle Claw with the rest of Tower Town looming in the background.

The start of the Eagle Claw

Some of the gear

Bill Amos with a rock picket

Nailing at the start of "IV Drip"

The summit of the Hospital

Dan Gaston jumars on The Eagle Claw

Praying that these beaks stay put!

Cleaning on The Eagle Claw

Trying to get the first bolt in, which was a little bit hard with a 12" bit. Luckily all worked out eventually and I got it in and eliminated the danger!!

Routes so far:

• The Hospital - "IV Drip" 5.6 A2
  FA: Tyler Adams & Cathy Power, August 2011.                       
  Aid up cracks on the up hill side to a mantle and short bit of free climbing to the summit. Rack: 4 medium beaks, 6 large beaks, 2 specter, 1 large angle, 2 lead bolts and 1 anchor bolt on the summit
• The Post Office - "Priority Mail" 5.7 
  FA: Tyler Adams & Bill Amos, October 2011. 
  Climb up past one bolt on the uphill side. 1 lead bolt and 2 anchor bolts.   

• The Eagles Claw - "Dodd/Bjorkman Route" A5
  FA: Eugene Dodd & Gerlad Bjorkman, June 7th 1970. 
  Eugene & Gerald established the first route up The Eagle Claw in 1970. They Drilled bolts and hammered pitons into bolt holes. Unfortunately they pulled all of their protection bolts/pitons so it is nearly impossible to tell which way the actually went. 

• The Eagles Claw - "The Eaglet" 5.5 A4
  FA: Tyler Adams & Dan Gaston, October 2011. 
  The only sensible route up the Claw is still pretty dangerous. Aid up thin cracks on the north side to a bolt (crux). Nail around to the uphill side to another bolt. Bust out a free move or two and keep pounding beaks past three more bolts. The final 20' follow a under cling flake. One the flake crack runs out you have two options either lasso the summit or make some disgusting free moves. Protection: 3 small beaks, 8 medium beaks, 10 large beaks, 4 specters, 2 3" bongs or large cams, to provide a little protection at the start so you don't roll all the way down the hill.

The Eagles Claw summit register. 

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The rest of these pictures and videos where all taken by my self or Bill Amos. 

Bill Amos replaces the missing first bolt on The Hospital during the second ascent.

Two of the unclimbed rock's in Tower Town, the one on the right is the largest of the group.

Busting out the rotten mantle onto the summit of The Hospital.

Dan Gaston cleans on The Hospital.

Welcome to Tower Town!

Drilling the protection bolt on the Post Office with the aid of some hooks.

Sweet crack!

Where did Dodd go?

 Unnamed and unclimbed.

The big guy.

First ascent of the Post Office!

Lasso!

Matt Van Biene performs the "Ballad of Tower Town" after a hard days work.