Friday, October 25, 2013

Wolf 2k13

Since my health sucks we only did a couple new routes at Wolf this year. Nothing special but since new bolts are visible, I might as well let it be known... The first thing we did was Will Nazarian and I bolted an 5.9 extension to the 'Arete Route', like all my routes every one thinks its dirty, but the position is hard to beat! Next was a new sport pitch to the left of 'T.R.', 'B.R.' or 'Brians Route', is a nice new 5.9 face climb and a great warm up. It also can be used as a much safer start for 'Spaced Cowboy'. Lastly Dave Trepp, Chris Fralick and I made a 5.10a direct start for 'The Flying Scorpion'. This climbs past the first two bolts on the normal first pitch but then heads straight up the face above directly to the belay ledge a top of the normal second pitch. There are a couple of cam placements and the bolts are slightly spaced, I think its 6 bolts and 2 or 3 cams in 110' so its a little run out, and if you started up it thinking it was a sport pitch you might shit your pants...

Flying Scorpion Direct – 5.10a
FA: Tyler Adams, David Trepp & Chris Fralick, July 2013

                Shares the first two bolts with ‘The Flying Scorpion’ then continues up past four more bolts and a couple medium cam placements. Finish at the same anchor of the second pitch of ‘The Flying Scorpion’. Slightly sporty climbing towards the top. Protection: Bolts and cams to 2”.

B.R. – 5.8
FA: Brian Gilbert & Tyler Adams, June 2013

                This would now be considered the first sport pitch you reach under the arch. Nice face climbing up clean rock leads to a two bolt anchor at a small stance. This can be used as a much better way to start ‘Spaced Cowboy’ to avoid the run-out climbing on the original first pitch.  Protection: Bolts.

The ArĂȘte Route – 5.9
FA P1: Unknown 
FA P2: Will Nazarian & Tyler Adams, May 2013

The first pitch is a quality route and many climbers first route under the arch. The second pitch is a little harder and has a little bit of loose rock, but the position is one of the best in the area. Its all about location! Pitch 1: Climb past a tricky move at the start and climb up the arĂȘte passing six bolts to a double bolt anchor. Rappel or continue up Pitch 2: Stay more or less on the arete passing nine more bolts up the the same belay ledge as 'The Peterson Route'. Make two rappels with one rope, or one rappel straight to the ground with two ropes. Protection: Bolts

Tuesday, August 13, 2013

The Callis Route with Callis!

Earlier this summer I got a call from Jeff Thomas asking if I wanted to hike up to the Menagerie and climb the classic Callis Route on the Hen with non other than Pat Callis himself. So obviously I was game and really quite excited. Now I don't have a ton to say about the climbing that day since all we did was climb the Hen a couple times so Jeff could shoot video and snap some pictures.  But god damn was it cool to hang out with Pat, he's over 70 and still cranks as hard as your average 25 year old. His memory from the day of the FA of the Hen was as clear as they day he did it, which by the way was back in the 50's before %99 of us had ever put on a harness. Pat is now a professor at Montana State University, climbs regularly, and even still climbs ice as much as he can. A true inspiration for anyone!

Pat and I on top of the Hen. 
Photo: Jeff Thomas

Me belaying Pat up Winter Sunshine.
Photo: Jeff Thomas

Menagerie climbers of two different generations!
Photo: Jeff Thomas

Saturday, April 13, 2013