Sunday, May 8, 2011

Oregon Cascades 2011

So with new routes getting kicked off at Wolf in Janurary, I'll keep a running update of new routes at Wolf, The Menagerie and other cascade crags!

  • Wolf Rock - "Balrog" 5.8 - FA: Chris Fralick & Tyler Adams - Janurary 2011
          Chris and I went to Wolf during the low snow of Janurary with the intention of poking around on what was thought to be "Death March". Apoun arrival to the cliff we just started walking around looking for options. I eyed a solid looking buttress about 150' left of the start to "The Mystery Route".  It was on, I started up but with only four bolts, only got 70' up untill I ran out of bolts. Chris took over and added one more bolt and pushed through the routes crux and put in an anchor. The route will someday continue to the top but for now makes another fine sport pitch at the base.
  • Wolf Rock - "The Flying Scorpion" 5.9 - FA P1-P2: Tyler Adams & Jeff Thomas - January 2011  FA P3: Steve Elder & Tyler Adams June 2011
           Jeff Thomas and I hiked into Wolf to figure out where he and Doug Philips went when they did Freaky Easy. We figured out that they started on Space Cowboy before Traversing out left for two new pitches. We decided to add an independent start, we got two pitches in and started the third, then Steve Elder and I returned to complete the third pitch. I started up and got the first four bolts in the Steve punched through the small roof marking the routes crux. A little loose rock, but solid bolts and memorable climbing on the third pitch make this route a classic. Pitch one and two can be linked. The route is named after a rather large scorpion that was found on the third pitch belay ledge, he took a small flight with some of the rocks originally perched on the ledge. Pretty crazy though a scorpion 300' feet off the ground on a ledge in Oregon! Pitch 1 (5.7):  Begins behind the tree that covers the trail, about 20' left of Space Cowboy. The first bolt it about 20' up, a yellow TCU protects the climbing to the first bolt. Climb past that bolt to a small ledge. traverse up and left past four more bolts to a nice ledge and an anchor. Pitch 2 (5.6): Climbs a short but nice 50' ramp using medium size cams for protection up to another belay ledge. Pitch 3 (5.9): Step to the right and climb up past four bolts heading toward the small roof, clip a bolt around the roof, muscle through the roof on good holds, and step right to another bolt and easier climbing past one more to a small belay ledge at the base of the prominent right facing diheadral. Continue on the freakishly run out "Freaky Easy", or rappel to the top of pitch two, then use two ropes to rappel to the ground or rappel to the top of pitch one and then to the groud with one rope. Protection: Bolts and cams to 2".
    Jeff Thomas on Pitch 2
  • Wolf Rock - "Gothmog" 5.9 - FA: Tyler Adams & Peter Fralick - May 1st, 2011
           Gothmog is another nice 5.9 sport pitch that climbs to the same anchor as the first pitch of Balrog. Six bolts lead out a nice steep buldge with some fun classic Wolf Rock style climbing. More ascents means cleaner rock so go get on it!
  • Wolf Rock - "Edge of Mordor" 5.9 - FA P1: Tyler Adams & Bill Amos - Summer 2010, FA P2: Tyler Adams & Chris Fralick - June 2011, FA P3 Tyler Adams & Steve Elder - June 2011
           Bill Amos and I had bolted the first pitch last summer, we returned this year two add two more pitches to eventually join the top of Cerberus, where one can then traverse to join the fourth pitch of the Morgul Vale and continue to the summit. Pitch 1 (5.8): Start around the same spot at the orginal Gigantor pitch, but follow the left line of bolts. Climb past ten bolts and eventually tend right past two more bolts to an awsome belay ledge. Pitch 2 (5.9):  From the belay climb easy rock past a bolt to another bolt at the entrance to the corner, chimney up the wide slot, then stem, and lieback your way up to a bolt, wild climbing leads out a small overhang and up another 40' to and exposed belay stance with two bolt. Pitch 3 (5.9): Traverse right past three bolts and a cam placement, to the belay atop Cerberus. Protection: Bolts and gear to 4". 
 Drillen' on Pitch 3   Photo: Chris Fralick

New Topo


  1. Hey Tyler - your entries here on this page are a little confusing.

    1. You mention eying a buttress 150'left of the Mystery Route now with 5 bolts. You call it Balrog 5.8 yet on your topo shown on a different entry you show Balrog being a 1 pitch 5.9 starting to the right of the Mystery Route and just left of Flying Scorpion. Can you clarify?

    2. Gothmog is another route that shares the anchors at the first pitch of Balrog. Which Balrog, the one I asked about above or the Balrog from your other topo?

    3. Balrog is also called out in the NWORs guide book as a 5.6R/X route up high on the face in a right facing corner system. Is this another Balrog?

    Thanks for helping clarify. I was out there this weekend and love the area. Will be back!

    One more question, has Space Cowboy been retro bolted and does it have anchors or is it strictly a R/X rated gear route?


  2. A bit more reading on my part would have answered some of the above questions:

    initially called Gothmog but later decided to call it Balrog since others were referring to Freaky Easy incorrectly as Balrog.

    I'm still curious about the NWORs description, does Balrog continue up the corner?