The Cock!
Horse Cock Rock is one hell of a pillar, located east of Sweet Home. The Cock is right up there with the Turkey Monster and other sheer pillars around Oregon. With only one route to the summit, almost all on bolts, it makes for a relativly stress free day in the hills. First attempted by Bob Eckstrand and Steve Knutson back in 1967. After climbing the first free pitch and reaching the blank upper section they retreated. Pete Pollard and Darryl Gotwauld returned in April of 1980 to make the first ascent. Jim Anglin and Mike Hartley made the second ascent later that year. When Brian Gilbert and I climbed it in 2008 with a tiny bit of beta from Jim Anglin, we found no evidence of a recent ascent except for some new bolts on the 1st pitch and a bail sling. There was no visable summit anchor, so we drilled a new two bolt anchor wich makes it easy to make one rappel with two ropes that puts you right back at your packs. Originally climbed in three pitches it makes more sense to do it in only two pitches, and avoid an uncomfortable hanging belay. Don't miss this classic Oregon summit!
Soft Space - 5.8 A2
FA: Pete Pollard & Darryl Gotwauld, April 1980
Pitch 1 (5.8): From the uphill sadle climb up obvious wide crack system using some bolts and larger sized cams for protection. Some bolts where added two this pitch, most likely by the "Lebanon Bolt Cowboy". Natural protection is availible so its possible they may be removed at somepoint. The crux is located just below the belay ledge. Mind some loose blocks on the pitch.
Pitch 2 (5.7 A2): Begin with two bolts off of the belay to a short nailing crux, using RURPs or knifeblade's. Continue past more bolts and a couple of rivets, with a hook move or two. When the bolts end, nail a couple more pins or just star free climbing, to a trough to the right climb past a hangerless 1/4" bolt and continue to the flat and spacious summit with a single bolt and tree anchor. The free climbing is quite runout, but the rock is super solid. Rappel with two ropes, from two bolts on the uphill side of the Cock. Protection: A couple of cams to 4", a small selection on thin pitons from RUPS to Lost Arrow, a medium sized hook and some wire rivet hangers.
Tyler Adams on Pitch 2. September 2008
Steve Elder following pitch 1. July 2011
Killing time on the belay ledge. July 2011
Sun and steepness. July 2011
Cleanin on pitch 2. July 2011
Steve Elder on the summit. July 2011.
Steve on rappel. July 2011
