Friday, January 21, 2011

Wolf Rock 2010

Wolf Rock stands as the largest monolith in Oregon. So why no one did what we did this year before really blows my mind? During the past year we where able to add about 18 pitches to the South East face of Wolf Rock. With a low snow pack we got things going in early March, kicking it off Chris Fralick and I went up to attempt to finish the third pitch of the Coriolis Effect/Mystery Route and encountered too rotten of rock for a ground up attempt that day. On the ground with the whole lead bolting kit in hand I decided to start up the three bolt abandoned project left of Get Up Stand Up, this went extremely well and resulted in T.R. a three start 10a, with the ease of this route it set the tone for bigger and better things to come. Later in April we bumped into Wayne Arrington, the master of Wolf Rock whom established Coligula, Gigantor, Barad-Dur and Pooh Corner at Wolf back in 70's.  Wayne told us we should go up on Gigantor and add some more bolts and make it climbable. In its current condition it was surely a death route, not attracting any repeats other than Wayne him self. Now I normally wouldn't be too into fully retro bolting old routes but with the blessing of the first ascensionist, being his idea it seemed like a must do. Not even knowing and still not knowing where the actual route went made it basically a first ascent in its own right. So we created the eight pitch 5.9 Morgul Vale aka Gigantor V2.0. The final push to the summit was the last climbable day at Wolf Rock this season, the next day the snow and rains began thus putting a close to the most productive season in Wolf Rocks history.

Routes completed in 2010:
T.R. - 5.10a - one pitch - FA: Tyler Adams & Chris Fralick
Steppen Wolf - 5.7 - two pitches - FA:  Tyler Adams & Chris Fralick
The Underdog - 5.10d - one pitch - FA: Chris Fralick & Tyler Adams
Frog & Chimp -  5.8 - two pitches - FA: Tyler Adams & Bill Amos
Cerberus - 5.10c/d - one pitch - FA: Chris Fralick & Tyler Adams
The Cross Roads variation - one pitch - FA:  Tyler Adams & Jack Maylunas
Morgul Vale - 5.9+ - eight pitches - FA: Chris Fralick & Tyler Adams
Ian's Route - 5.10a - two pitches - FA: Ian Roth & Tyler Adams

Also John Rich, Randy Rimby, Dave Trepp, Peter Fralick, Brian Gilbert, Jake Hector, Jake Ringold and Kirk Winkler all helped out in some way or another.

Wolf Rock on a wet June afternoon.
Chris Fralick on the first ascent of pitch two of Steppen Wolf. 5/23/10

Brian Gilbert on pitch one of Steppen Wolf. 5/30/10

Brian Gilbert rappelling Steppen Wolf. 5/30/10

The South East face from the base. 5/30/10

Wayne Arrington checking in. 6/5/10

Jake Ringold on rappel. 6/5/10

Jake Hector at camp, rain or shine. 6/9/10

The ladies at the base. 6/12/10

John Rich starting up the first pitch of Morgal Vale, while Cathy Power takes a nap. 6/12/10
John Rich on pitch one of The Morgal Vale. 6/12/10

Jake Ringold on belay duty while Cathy Power, Veronica Schmitz & Jake Hector look on. 6/12/10

Foliage. 6/13/10

Peter Fralick on the second ascent of The Underdog. 6/13/10

Ian Roth on the first ascent of the first pitch of Ian's Route. 6/22/10

What the hell? Tyler Adams atop pitch two during the first ascent of Ian's Route. 6/22/10

Fred Spencer following Chris Fralick up Chimp & Frog. 9/25/10

Peter Fralick belays Chris Fralick on pitch three of The Morgul Vale. 10/5/10

Unknown climbers on Barad-Dur. 10/12/10

Unknown climbers on Barad-Dur. 10/12/10

John Rich leaves his mark on pitch five of The Morgul Vale. 10/12/10

Tyler Adams takes over the bolt gun on pitch five of The Morgal Vale. 10/12/10

Chris Fralick on the first ascent of the 140' Cerebrus during final summit push of The Morgul Vale. 11/5/10

Chris Fralick and the junk show during the final push on The Mogal Vale. 11/5/10
The crew up high. 11/5/10

Tyler Adams on pitch five of The Morgal Vale. 11/5/10

Wolf Meadow or Wolf Marsh? 11/5/10

The car. 11/5/10

Chris Fralick launches into the unknown on pitch six of The Morgul Vale. 11/5/10

Chris Fralick walks off the summit after the first ascent of The Morgal Vale. 11/5/10

The masterminds at the base. 11/5/10


  1. Tyler, Chris,
    Thanks for putting in the work on new routing. I am moving to the area (portland anyway) on June 1st next year. I love long routes so its exciting to find out that there is some decent multipitch close to town. Keep up the good work. Ill certainly be out climbing this stuff next year!

    1. Thank you, your comment comes much appreciated. We love putting up long (or short) routes so hopefully there will be a couple more by the time you make it out there. Maybe we'll bump into you out there... until then. Cheers!

  2. Did you know that that you can make dollars by locking premium sections of your blog / website?
    All you need to do is open an account with Mgcash and use their Content Locking tool.