Friday, January 21, 2011

Morgul Vale

Here is a topo of the Morgul Vale. The second to last bolt on the 6th pitch was moved about 15' to the right, making the route easier to follow and the rope drag not so bad.

Morgal Vale.


  1. Tyler, not sure if you have done this already, but you might allow several people permission to edit the blog and add content. ...I know you're not the only one climbing choss in OR :)

  2. Just climbed this over the weekend starting with the Ian's route variation. Couldn't find/follow the route at all after the 6th pitch. Ending up taking a few interesting trad/4th class pitches to the right, then traversing left to the true summit. Does anyone know if its possible to rapp off the top of Wolf Rock, or is that scramble down the only way?

  3. We followed Morgal Vale to a T but it is tricky to find the anchors atop pitch 6. Advice: do not get lulled into the long traverse left after the last bolt. Instead, go up and slightly right to the anchors following a wider, muddy crack. If you are not inclined to do the walk off down the 4th class gully stop climbing at the top of pitch 5 and rap. You won't miss much in terms of climbing quality as the rock rapidly deteriorates above pitch 5. A rap line could do wonders