Monday, May 21, 2012

Tower Town!!

Located on the East bank of the Deschutes River in Crooked River Ranch about 15 miles west of Smith Rock as the crow flies is a small cluster of spires known as Tower Town. Originally we had thought that all of the spires where unclimbed but to our dismay we spotted a rapped sling on what turned out to be the Eagles Claw , but the original first ascentionists had pulled there bolts on the way down so plenty of adventure was still left. Tower Town is dominated by one large 200' spire then about 5 or so 30-70' towers, and then the Eagle Claw situated a but more to the north of the rest of the group is the most phallic and impressive looking.

The first tower I climbed dubbed "The Hospital" My girlfriend Cathy tagged along for this one learning how to jumar on the spot. Luckily I cleaned it on rappel. The rack was about 12 large sized beaks and 2 bolts. The first bolt I drilled did not even stay put, but a better bolt was placed during the second ascent. Fun aid climbing and a good intro to the soft rock in Tower Town. Bill Amos & Dan Gaston repeated the route shortly there after.

Next up was "The Post Office" 5.7 This short tower located furthest north in the main group only required one lead bolt and about 30' of actual climbing.

After this is was my turn to establish a new line up "The Eagles Claw". I had originally planned to start on the uphill said and basically just drill a bolt ladder. But Bill and our pro photographer Matt Van Biene convinced me to start on the north side so they could get some better shots of me. Well there where actually some thin cracks here which made for some wild aid climbing the first bolt is about 35' up above A4 beaks. So this resulted in "The Eaglet". You'll need about 25 or so various beaks and specters and there are 5 lead bolts. Also have your lasso skills dialed or be ready to bust some dicey free moves at the top. I opted for a lasso of the summit horn.The most dangerous part is getting to the first bolt.

As of now this is all we've done, but we plan to return in the next couple of months to climb the rest of the towers....


The Eagle Claw with the rest of Tower Town looming in the background.

The start of the Eagle Claw

Some of the gear

Bill Amos with a rock picket

Nailing at the start of "IV Drip"

The summit of the Hospital

Dan Gaston jumars on The Eagle Claw

Praying that these beaks stay put!

Cleaning on The Eagle Claw

Trying to get the first bolt in, which was a little bit hard with a 12" bit. Luckily all worked out eventually and I got it in and eliminated the danger!!

Routes so far:

  • The Hospital - "IV Drip" 5.6 A2
    FA: Tyler Adams & Cathy Power, August 2011.                       
    Aid up cracks on the up hill side to a mantle and short bit of free climbing to the summit. Rack: 4 medium beaks, 6 large beaks, 2 specter, 1 large angle, 2 lead bolts and 1 anchor bolt on the summit
  • The Post Office - "Priority Mail" 5.7 
    FA: Tyler Adams & Bill Amos, October 2011. 
    Climb up past one bolt on the uphill side. 1 lead bolt and 2 anchor bolts.   
  • The Eagles Claw - "Dodd/Bjorkman Route" A5
    FA: Eugene Dodd & Gerlad Bjorkman, June 7th 1970. 
    Eugene & Gerald established the first route up The Eagle Claw in 1970. They Drilled bolts and hammered pitons into bolt holes. Unfortunately they pulled all of their protection bolts/pitons so it is nearly impossible to tell which way the actually went. 
  • The Eagles Claw - "The Eaglet" 5.5 A4
    FA: Tyler Adams & Dan Gaston, October 2011. 
    The only sensible route up the Claw is still pretty dangerous. Aid up thin cracks on the north side to a bolt (crux). Nail around to the uphill side to another bolt. Bust out a free move or two and keep pounding beaks past three more bolts. The final 20' follow a under cling flake. One the flake crack runs out you have two options either lasso the summit or make some disgusting free moves. Protection: 3 small beaks, 8 medium beaks, 10 large beaks, 4 specters, 2 3" bongs or large cams, to provide a little protection at the start so you don't roll all the way down the hill.

The Eagles Claw summit register. 


The rest of these pictures and videos where all taken by my self or Bill Amos. 

Bill Amos replaces the missing first bolt on The Hospital during the second ascent.

Two of the unclimbed rock's in Tower Town, the one on the right is the largest of the group.

Busting out the rotten mantle onto the summit of The Hospital.

Dan Gaston cleans on The Hospital.

Welcome to Tower Town!

Drilling the protection bolt on the Post Office with the aid of some hooks.

Sweet crack!

Where did Dodd go?

 Unnamed and unclimbed.

The big guy.

First ascent of the Post Office!


Matt Van Biene performs the "Ballad of Tower Town" after a hard days work.


  1. Sweet! I would love to hula hoop on top of those towers. I did it on top of Ancient Art and have been looking for other spires closer to home to go hula hooping on!

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  3. Thank you for providing such a useful information about Tower bolts for construction. Keep posting like this.